Opening Shot is a column that peeks inside new hotels, restaurants, bars, and shops with dreamy interiors.
Location: Los Angeles
Designer: Victoria Gillet of We Are Dada
On Offer: After shuttering in 2020, the clubby Italian kitchen is ready for a second act under the guidance of restauranteurs Call Mom whose knack for historical preservation has proven itself at places like Chinese restaurant Genghis Cohen. Tucked inside a windowless mauve building on Santa Monica Boulevard, the all-booth dining room honors the original spirit—The Wizard of Oz set designer Lyle Wheeler envisioned the previous space—while cranking the panache up a notch.
Drawing on films like Casino and the spot’s iconic zip code, the refreshed interiors set the scene: muted lilac brick, burled wood, and stained glass cheetahs. Refined touches such as gold-rimmed Dibbern bone china and bespoke uniforms from Beverly Hills atelier Denis Frison make all the difference. Plus the soundtrack is curated to evoke a 1970s Hollywood jukebox, with the playlist ranging from 60s soul to 70s rock and a dash of crooner classics.
Standout Features: Inspired by iconic red-sauce joints, executive chef Nick Russo (Ink, Nightshade) serves a rotation of Italian-American staples bolstered by in-house curing and fermentation. Order the spaghetti and meatballs, it’s a classic for a reason.
The cocktail menu retains an Italian-American influence with an au courant twist courtesy of Dante alum Michael Toscano. A notable standout is the on-trend Garden State, an olive oil-washed gin cocktail with cherry tomato water from a local farmer’s market, housemade parmesan saline, and a black pepper tincture. If you’re lucky enough to snag one of the seven emerald barstools, keep an eye out for a technicolor lithograph painted by Sinatra himself.
