Cone Denim Mills Weaves Through Time

Though an unfamiliar name to most, Cone Denim Mills, based in Greensboro, North Carolina, is beloved by devotees of the fabric for the vintage-like quality of its product, which is made with traditional weaving methods and, at its renowned White Oak plant, a loom that dates back to the 1940s. Up north, few know their way around the denim business better than Scott Morrison, who started out in 1999, and founded two jeans labels prior to launching 3×1 out of SoHo in 2011. For Cone’s 125th birthday this year, Morrison wanted to do something special with the tried-and-true denim maker. The result is a capsule collection of menswear pieces meant to replicate as closely as possible the original denim that Cone rolled out back in 1891. Morrison’s team spearheaded designs of the collection’s five items—three jean styles, a jacket, and a tote. Cone did what they do best, and recreated the material that would have clothed workers in the late 19th century. Such garments are not, as one can imagine, for the casual jean-wearer: They are stiff and sturdy, the natural state of raw (meaning not pre-washed, as most commercial styles are, to make them soft), selvedge denim. (The truly devoted can consider taking a lukewarm bath while wearing the jeans to ease them into a perfect fit.) Each one-of-a-kind item is numbered, and 3×1 also offers the fabric through its “bespoke” division. From $195, 3×1.us