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Dries Van Noten and Pierpaolo Piccioli Leave Their Houses
We initially billed 2023 as fashion’s year of succession, but it seems that energy is spilling into 2024, too. Last week, Dries Van Noten sent shockwaves through the industry when he announcedplans to retire in June after nearly four decades in fashion. The Belgian designer, who favored rapturous colors and stagedunforgettable runway shows, didn’t immediately name a successor. Pierpaolo Piccioli likewise announced his departure from Valentino after 25 years at the maison, eight as the sole creative director following Maria Grazia Chiuri’s 2016 departure to join Dior. He was credited for injecting youthful spirit into a house with daring volumes and colors, and even dabbling in streetwear. A successor wasn’t named either, but rumors are swirling that owner Mayhoola is eyeing Alessandro Michele or even Chiuri.
In other people news, Nicole Berry will depart her role as executive director of the Armory Show and soon join the Hammer Museum as senior director for donor engagement. It’s the first major leadership shakeup since Frieze acquired the art fair and EXPO Chicago this past July. Adjaye Associates announced a shift in how the firm will run: Kofi Bio, Lucy Tilley, and Pascale Sablan have been named CEOs overseeing offices in Accra, London, and New York City, respectively. David Adjaye, who was accused of sexual misconduct by three former female employees last year, was named Executive Chair of the Group and will continue overseeing the firm’s design direction. (Adjaye denies the allegations.) The Metropolitan Museum of Art has hired Lucian Simmons as its first head of provenance research, a result of the institution’s more aggressive restitution efforts. —Ryan Waddoups
Boerum Hill will soon welcome a seven-story residential project designed by Mexico City–based Taller Frida Escobedo with a low-stance, rhythmically pleated facade. The building will feature 105 condominium units designed by Workstead, with an emphasis on indoor-outdoor living and private outdoor gardens for 75 percent of the units. Collaborating with landscape designers DXA Studio and Patrick Cullina, the scheme prioritizes natural light and porosity while fostering community through amenities like the Glass House, communal spaces, and outdoor terraces.
Hauser & Wirth is planning to open its 18th gallery, in Basel, with a small selection of works by the late Danish painter Vilhelm Hammershøi, marking his first show in Switzerland. Curated by art historian Felix Krämer, “Silence” will feature 18 paintings, including rare pieces from private collections, showcasing Hammershøi’s mastery of interiors and portraits. Known for his eerie stillness and modernist sensibility akin to Vermeer and Morandi, Hammershøi’s work captures a timeless quality that continues to resonate with contemporary audiences.
Heatherwick Studio has unveiled plans for his firm’s first South American project, in Bogotá, collaborating with Universidad Ean Design School to create a seven-story academic building and maker space. Inspired by traditional Werregue basket-making techniques, the scheme is defined by a colorful facade with setbacks, free columns, and circular outdoor terraces, aligned with his recent “war on blandness.” Construction is scheduled to kick off in 2025.
The Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego has announced the sale of its downtown location, comprising two buildings including the historic Santa Fe railroad baggage depot, due to financial challenges and operational shifts following a recent expansion in La Jolla. This decision raises concerns about the fate of commissioned artworks by prominent artists like Robert Irwin, Richard Serra, and Maya Lin. Despite assurances that the art will be protected and potentially relocated, uncertainties remain regarding the future accessibility and care of these pieces.
MVRDV has unveiled Tencent P5, a giant residential complex forming part of Tencent’s new smart city campus in Shenzhen. Comprising 11 apartment towers arranged around green courtyards, the development prioritizes equality and community interaction, with amenities including sports facilities, forested green areas, and pedestrian streets. Designed with sustainability in mind, the project also features a dedicated kindergarten and incorporates smart city elements like automated vehicle networks. The project is slated for completion this year.