RUNWAY REDUX

Elena Velez Subverts the Siren Song

Elena Velez’s FW ‘25 collection sees the designer, an LVMH Prize Finalist, reach a clarity of vision in both her clothing and the women who inhabit it. Audacious, powerful, seductive, and unbothered by what the world makes of such a combination, the collection’s shoulder-baring leather bustiers, distressed corsets, and gauzy frocks—seemingly ready to fall to the floor at a moment’s notice—speak volumes. So too does the technical prowess behind details like the collection’s textural leather ruffles, meshlike knits, and structured outerwear.

Elena Velez's SS25 runway show. Credit: Gio Cardenas

Runway Redux is a fashion column in which we ask a designer to reflect on a new collection; this week, Surface reports from behind the scenes at New York Fashion Week.

Three words to describe the collection: Iconoclastic, cinematic, expressive

Which look is your favorite? I think the collection is most appreciable collectively. Each individual look adds to the character ecosystem we’ve built in different unique ways.

What was the inspiration? Folkloric feminine figures who muddle the distinction between good and evil through the lens of our nautical house codes.

Any parties or events you’re looking forward to? Going to Applebee’s with Andreas and our babies once the smoke clears.

What made you decide to stage a runway show this season, instead of a presentation or salon? Story and plot are so important to the context of the clothing. Finding new ways to engage the audience in the narrative of the season is something I really enjoy considering. What really works for us is when our shows are visceral, multisensory, and theatrical. Leaving room for spontaneity and organic interactions amongst our cast and audience.

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