Back in 2007, Smith & Mills’ 450-square-foot, studio-sized space was heralded as the next big thing, even if it was located in “the Tribeca nether lands.” Almost a full 17 years later, not too much has changed, save for a significantly expanded footprint at founders Matt Abramcyk and Akiva Elstein’s new Rockefeller Center outpost of the Tribeca original. The duo, also of Neighborhood Projects, collaborated with Krista Ninivaggi of architecture firm Woods Bagot on the space, which teems with indulgent finishes in the form of ample black zellige ceramic tiles, oxblood velvet banquettes, white marble bistro and dining tables, and antique painted black pendant lighting by the late designer Christian Dell.
The overall effect is fitting with Rockefeller Center’s Art Deco grandeur in mind, and carries through to the menu and drinks selection. Elevated bar snacks include a chicken liver mousse crostini and chicken croquettes served with prosciutto and black pepper aioli. Though the raw bar stays firmly modern—no seafood towers to see here—it does offer a grand plate of fruits de mer which includes oysters from both coasts, local littleneck clams, tuna tartare, ceviche, and a shrimp cocktail. Scarf it all down with a winter chicory salad of bitter greens and a trio of mini martinis for good measure.
