SUSHI BY SCRATCH
Location: New York City
On Offer: Tucked behind the unmarked door within a graffitied vestibule on 21st St. is the newly unveiled Sushi by Scratch. The New York outpost of the omakase concept takes cues from its locale, juxtaposing the dimly-lit sensibility of city with traditional Japanese elements.
Designed in-house by the family-run team, the space unfolds like a matryoshka doll; guests first enter the candlelit whiskey bar—where chef Philip Lee personally laid the brick and draped the Japanese fabric from the walls—before continuing deeper into the restaurant. Dark tatami panels give way to burnt cedarwood in the final act, where cabaret lighting puts meticulously prepared sushi center stage.
Standout Features: At the Brooklyn-made butcher block counter, Chef Lee serves as the conductor, guiding guests through the 17-course omakase menu with precision. Under his watchful eye—and palate—tradition and innovation engage in a playful dance: fresh brown rice is sourced from Doyuuno Farm in Koyama prefecture before being milled and polished in-house, sea salt is brought in from Big Tree Farms in Bali for its low salinity and effervescent crunch.
Hamachi is doused in sweet corn pudding and sprinkled with breadcrumbs from hef Margarita Kallas-Lee, chef Lee’s wife and partner. Unagi is fried in rendered bone marrow, brushed with handmade poblano yuzu kosho, soy sauce, and lemon, and dusted with Balinese sea salt. To finish, chef Kallas-Lee’s matcha bonbon, a makrut lime, white chocolate, and shortbread confection, paired with umeshu plum wine tea with smoked lavender honey and yuzu makes for an unforgettable finale.
