At Trattoria del Ciumbia, Dimore Studio Travels Back in Time

In the 1960s, members of Milan’s artistic avant-garde—among them Piero Manzoni, Nanda Vigo, and Paolo Scheggi—frequented traditional trattorias in the city’s once-bohemian Brera district. Now the Milanese Montmartre is revisiting that history with Trattoria del Ciumbia, a new eatery envisioned by Britt Moran and Emiliano Salci of Dimore Studio as an homage to the area’s culinary past. They sprinkle unexpected contemporary twists throughout, from the aperitif area’s pewter counter embedded with vitrines of reassembled plates to a discreet dining room lined with plum and burgundy velvet curtains. There, diners can enjoy secondi like braised beef cheek and stewed snails while perched on Vico Magistretti chairs underneath hanging Flos lamps. Head down the walnut-paneled staircase to a private disco club for after-dinner drinks—and peep through a subtle porthole to catch a glimpse of the fully stocked bar.

Photography by Poala Pansini.